assignment 5 submission

I submitted assignment 5 in hard copy, comprising:

Portfolio of drawings (Project 1: Developing Visual Research, Option 2 – Back to the archive

Lever-arch file   (Project 2: Building a Response – Identify and present colour palette – Develop textile concepts – Develop yarn and linear concepts  Project 3: Experimenting and Taking Risks)

Ring binder  (Project 2: Be Inspired by an Artist or Designer)

Sketchbook  (Project 2: Produce a Workbook/Working Sketchbook)

Mounted textiles and loose-leaf pages    (Assignment 5: Capsule Collection and Reflection)

Online learning log/blog at:  https://vrocatextiles.wordpress.com/

 

part five: reflection

While I was working on this assignment, my mother died and my partner and father were hospitalised, so it took much longer to complete than anticipated – it felt quite an achievement just to get it finished. But it is also true that the work acted as a form of therapy, providing both distraction and time to reflect and I greatly enjoyed this assignment. I think this is demonstrated in my work through the effort I have invested in it.

I also feel that I have come a long way since the start of ATV and that this is perhaps most clearly demonstrated in the development of my drawing. The drawings I made for my first assignments were mostly small and often tentative. The drawings I made for assignment 5 are much bigger in size and scale, and much more confident as I have come to better understand that I am trying to capture qualities and explore properties and potential, rather than to make ‘photographic representations’ of what I am looking at. While this is what the course tells us to do from the outset, it was only by working through the various assignments and putting the drawings to use that I really began to understand this. What is so significant is that I have changed from someone who drew reluctantly and nervously, to someone who really enjoys drawing and exploring different drawing media and techniques, and who now understands the fundamental importance of drawing to textile design and development.

Although, following my research into Alabama Chanin, I decided quite early on to focus on exploiting the potential of a limited range of materials, I made around 50 paper and textile samples for this assignment using a range of techniques and materials. Eventually I moved on to the final project – the capsule collection – because I felt I had sufficient samples with the potential for further development  and because time was running on, but I could happily have continued experimenting. Still, this means I have ideas I can try out in future projects. Interestingly, in terms of the Chris Ofili quotation at the start of Part 5, about the studio as a laboratory, I found myself thinking constantly in terms of experiments rather than samples.

In both my drawings and my paper and textile experiments, I think I have demonstrated technical and visual skills and creativity. However, I am aware that while I have become much more adventurous in the size of my drawings, my experiments tend to be of a similar (quite small) size and the pieces in my capsule collection are also of a similar size to each other, although there is some variation in scale. This is partly due to my rather labour-intensive methods of working which mean that often there is not time to work bigger. Sometimes – as with the iron-on laminate I used – the availability and cost of materials has an impact on the size of work I can produce. I also have only a small area in which to work. Nevertheless, if I can make big drawings I should be able to find ways to make bigger textile pieces, so this is something to work on in future courses. Even if I do eventually make small and/or small-scale pieces, this should be a considered choice after experimentation with size and scale.

In terms of quality of outcome, I was more pleased with some pieces in my capsule collection than with others. In particular I thought the machine-stitched jersey and tinfoil, the machine-stitched bonded and cut jersey on lamé, and the organza and lamé laminated pieces showed potential for further development. In terms of what I have said in the previous paragraph, I think all three could work well as much bigger pieces. I think the same is also true of the jersey piece with the organza and sequin clusters, but I don’t particularly like it. I’d say the least successful piece is the one with the concentric jersey circles. Somehow the samples/experiments from which this was developed were much more interesting than the final piece which really did not warrant the time it took. I do, though, think there is an overall coherence to the collection, the pieces connected by materials, colour palette and reflective surfaces despite being quite different in other ways. I think also that the drawings, samples and capsule collection demonstrate the development of a coherent personal voice.

Following positive feedback on my presentation of Assignment 4 I adopted a similar approach with Assignment 5, but I found presentation of the capsule collection a real challenge. Eventually I decided to mount each piece on card, but secured them with removable bifurcated rivets so that each piece can be easily either completely or partially detached from the card if viewers wish to view the back. Whether I can find a way to pack the work so that my organza clusters  make it through the post uncrushed remains to be seen!

assignment 5: capsule collection

A quick tot-up indicates that I made around 50 experiments/concepts from my drawings, but even so it felt like the tip of the iceberg and that I was nowhere near ready to think in terms of a ‘collection’, albeit that we were not to think of our pieces as ‘finished’. I would rather have done a great deal more experimenting and developing ideas before getting to this point, but I had already spent way too long on this assignment and needed to get it finished and move on.

I do think that there is a coherence to my collection. The pieces share a colour palette and all include a reflective surface to a greater or larger extent. They are all based around the idea of pom poms. although I think that link is probably more apparent to me than to others. I definitely think some of the pieces are more successful than others – I particularly like the 3 ‘silver’ ones, which is to say the ones with a silver substrate and I can see myself playing with these techniques further. I think the least successful is the piece with the 9 jersey concentric circles and the stitching radiating out from them. It doesn’t help that it doesn’t photograph well – it looks a bit better in real life – but it is not especially interesting and was certainly not worth the time it took to make. But at this point the only way to discover that was to make it and see – this is one reason why I think further development and experimentation would have been useful. But I guess there will be other modules where I can build on the more promising ideas and it is surely better to see further potential than to feel I’ve reached the end of the road. I’m also conscious that although the ‘internal’ scale of the pieces differs, there is not much variation in the overall size of each piece and that is perhaps curious given the very different sizes and scales of my initial drawings. I think some of the reason for this is that I (once again) employed some pretty labour-intensive techniques which necessarily limits the size of work I can complete in the time available, and in other instances I was governed by the quantity and/or size of the materials I had available (eg, the iron-on laminate), but this is surely something to bear in mind for future work. At the same time, I do think I have demonstrated a variety of approaches and techniques, and imagination in the way that I have used the limited range of materials I set myself for this assignment.

And so to the collection. My biggest puzzle at the moment is how I will present the pieces when I submit them to my tutor. Here, online, I have  presented them in a slide show. Although it has a start and a finish (which reflects the order in which I will ask my tutor/assessors to view the physical pieces), I think there is sufficient coherence between the first and last piece for the slideshow to work as a continual loop.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

5.3 experimenting and taking risks b

For this experiment I combined the stretchy properties of cotton jersey, with the very unstretchy properties of tin foil (as the reflective surface). I was trying to find ways to represent the texture of my smallest pom pom drawing and thought I might be able to do this with dense machine stitching over tin foil. I used bondaweb to attach the foil to the jersey and then zigzag stitched over it, foil side up, both with and without a presser foot.  Then I stretched the jersey in all directions so that the tin foil between the stitches cracked.

tin foil 2
left: cotton jersey, bondaweb, tin foil, cotton and polyester threads

 

8j
cotton jersey, bondaweb, tin foil, cotton and polyester threads, c. 15 cm square
8i
cotton jersey, bondaweb, tin foil, cotton and polyester threads, c. 10 cm square

I was quite excited about this and began thinking more about the possibilities of bonding – partly, I think, because I had been wondering about experimenting with neoprene, which is often double-sided, but neoprene is expensive and the colours predetermined. With the use of bondaweb I could choose my own colours for double-sided fabrics. I was also interested in the way that the metal beads and the little piece of mirror in the embroidered bag I had drawn at the start of this assignment, were nestled into the surrounding fabrics, and I wanted to try to capture some of that slightly hidden quality, creating surfaces where the metal/reflective element is glimpsed (as in the tin foil experiment above) rather than centre stage. So, my next experiments involved bonding two colours of jersey together, then stitching them onto a lamé substrate which was partially revealed by cutting the jersey.

8l
cotton jersey, synthetic lamé, cotton thread, bondaweb, c. 15 x 14 cm
8k
cotton jersey, synthetic lamé, cotton thread, bondaweb, c. 15 x 16 cm

I could see a lot of potential to develop this technique.

Finally, interested in the potential of bonding, the aim to reduce waste and thinking, unexpectedly, back to the early experiment where I had to cover a paper concept with cellophane because of the tacky spraymount surface, I remembered that I had some iron-on laminate which I could perhaps use to draw these things together. I was reminded of Susie Freeman, whose stupendous work I remembered first seeing decades ago at the Crafts Council, where she was capturing little fragments of textile(? – this was certainly before she was making the medical pieces) in a fine knitted mesh,  and Luisa Cevese who developed a new type of fabric combining industrial textile waste and plastic.

So, I first tried bonding some organza waste between two pieces of iron-on laminate – which didn’t work brilliantly – and then tried bonding it between the lamé I had been using for previous experiments and the iron-on laminate, which I really liked,  then tried the same with the jersey waste, which was ok, but I liked better the ‘energy’ of the organza waste experiment. Again,  I thought this had a lot of development potential.

8f
iron-on laminate, organza and metallic thread waste, c. 10 cm square
8e
synthetic lamê, organza waste, iron-on laminate, c. 10 cm square
8d
synthetic lamê, jersey waste, iron-on laminate, c. 10 cm square

 

 

5.3 experimenting and taking risks a

I decided here to focus principally on less conventional materials and, thinking that perhaps at last the pipe cleaners would come into their own, I tried weaving with them. While I do think these experiments with them were marginally more interesting than the previous ones, that is not really saying a great deal. I’m still sure the pipe cleaners have potential, but I am yet to realise it!

In the shop where I found the pipe cleaners, I also discovered some little bells in more or less the colours of my palette, so I played around with these too. First I tried sewing them onto a piece of lamé, packed close together in a similar configuration to one of my drawings.

I thought I had packed the bells too closely together and that a different arrangement with variation in the density of the spacing would be more effective. I didn’t have enough of the right colour bells for another experiment, so I dismantled the first one and had another go. The result, I think, was much more successful and I could see that with more bells, more time, some stitching and some beads, this has the potential to develop into something quite interesting. Also, it jingles quite wonderfully when you pick it up and I like the idea of a sonic textile.

8a
synthetic lamé fabric, cotton thread, metal bells, c. 18 x 24 cm

While my focus was on alternative materials rather than different scale, I thought I should give the latter a bit of attention. So, I tried big stitching with tinsel:

8b
bamboo & viscose jersey, plastic? tinsel, cotton thread

which I absolutely hate. I then tried closely grouping multiple iterations of one of the previous textile concepts, changing the order of the colours. This was certainly better than the tinsel experiment, but ultimately nowhere near interesting enough to warrant the time and effort involved.

8c
cotton/lycra/bamboo/viscose jersey,

5.2 developing yarn and linear concepts b

At this point, family illness,  holiday and the return to work meant I had to cease working on the assignment for a time . Honesty compels me to confess that when I resumed I forgot that I still had to finish this section and so I moved on to the next stages, only returning to this one when I realised it was incomplete. So the placement of these experiments here does not following the actual chronology of their production, and the ideas for some of them came while working on project 3 and the capsule collection.

Using the same layering technique I’d used for the organza experiment I made a sample of a flat yarn using tissue and lamé fabric and increasing the saturation of each colour.

7b
synthetic lamé fabric, tissue paper, cotton thread, plastic sequins, metal beads, c. 60 cm

I then made 3 yarn experiments with the jersey fabric. First I stitched together, straight down the centre with metallic thread, a strip of each colour. Then I cut down each side, at 2-3mm intervals, ending as close to the stitching as possible, and then stretched each resulting strand, producing a wonderfully shaggy effect. Still mindful of minimum waste, I used offcuts to produce two other yarn concepts. Overall, I was pleased with these yarn concepts.

7a
Left to right: synthetic lamé fabric, cotton/lycra/viscose/bamboo jersey, coton thread, metal beads, c. 20 cm; cotton/lycra/viscose/bamboo jersey, metallic thread, c. 33 cm; cotton/lycra/viscose/bamboo jersey, metallic thread, c. 27 cm.

 

5.2 developing yarn and linear concepts a

I started very simply, thinking about how I could cut and stretch the cotton jersey I had been working with to make a textured ‘pom pom’ yarn. The result reminded me of coral.

7
strip of cotton jersey, cut diagonally on either side and stretched, c. 27 cm long

Then I experimented with the alpaca, silk and mohair yarns I had been using to stitch with, wrapping them around card in different configurations, machine sewing  down the centre, cutting through the edges and fluffing them up – much as a pom pom is made.

7c
the yarns wound around card, before stitching and cutting
7d
the yarns: alpaca, silk and mohair threads – left: c. 17 cm, right: c. 14 cm

I also tried again to find a use for the jumbo pipe cleaners, including some glittery ones I’d also found, but as before I failed to do anything remotely interesting with them.

7e
top: polyester, plastic and metal pipe cleaners, c. 30 cm – bottom: plastic and metal pipe cleaners, c. 30cm

5.2 developing textile concepts e

I next thought about how I might explore the collage techniques in fabric, incorporating  some metallic, reflective elements and really building up the texture. First I went back to paper, using different shades of orange/red tissue to vary the saturation, and then repeating the experiment in organza which, unlike the tissue which soon became squashed, was stiff enough to remain upright where I butted the pieces close up to each other, although that doesn’t really come across in the photograph!

5
top: tissue paper, polyester metallic thread, metal beads, plastic sequins – bottom: polyester organza, cotton thread, plastic sequins, metal beads

I also though about how I could use different layers of coloured and white organza to vary the colour saturation.

organza
layers of white and purple polyester organza, cotton thread, plastic sequins, metal beads

My last series of textile concepts was driven by the fact that I found in a shop a packet of jumbo pipe cleaners, some of which were in the colours of my palette, so wanted to do something with them, especially as their fat fluffiness seemed appropriate for my pom pom theme. I tried couching them onto jersey, and then crocheting a mesh with metallic yarn and twisting bits of pipe cleaner through them. Neither were very successful. Finally I tried a bit of knitting, creating a background with the metallic yarn and bobbles with alpaca and silk. Again, I was not very impressed and decided it was time to move to the next part of the assignment.

6
cotton jersey, polyester and metal pipe cleaners, polyester metallic thread, plastic seqins, metal beads, c. 11 cm square
6a
top: polyester metallilc yarn, polyester and metal pipe cleaners, c. 8 x 7 cm – bottom: polyester metallic yarn, silk and mohair yarn, c. 8 x 5 cm

 

 

5.2 developing textile concepts d

I next turned to the smallest of the drawings I did for the visual research and which had very different qualities from the ones I had used for the concepts so far.

10

While there were no metallic materials in the drawing, I thought the white spaces between the dots of colour would lend themselves well to interpretation in metallic threads and beads. The drawing seemed to me dense, but at the same time to have a lightness about it and I sought to capture these qualities in my explorations.

4
cotton jersey, polyester and cotton threads, metal beads. c. 11 cm square
4a
cotton jersey, polyester and cotton threads, metal beads. c. 12 cm square

 

5.2 developing textile concepts c

Inspired by the Alabama Chanin approach I decided to use a limited range of simple, cheap materials for this assignment, and to try to create interesting effects with embellishment and by exploiting their properties. The key fabric was (cotton) jersey which doesn’t fray and curls in different ways depending whether it is cut horizontally or vertically and when stretched. Anxious to continue working until I was able to get the right colours, I used the offcuts of jersey I had to hand.

By this time I had been able to get some jersey in my palette colours, but they were all lengths of solid colour whereas I wanted varied levels of saturation, so I dyed them, leaving each to sit in its dye bath unstirred so that it would dye unevenly.

colour sat.jpg
cotton jersey unevenly dyed with dylon cold-water dye
3g
concept using colour-palette fabrics – cotton jersey, cotton and lycra jersey dylon cold-water dyes, polyester lamé, polyester metallic thread